Pork shoulder may be the most misunderstood section of the edible pig. Most people avoid the cut entirely, preferring to roast a conventional pork loin roast or pork chops. Those that do tackle pork shoulder are usually making barbeque, converting the shoulder to pulled pork, i.e. shredded pork combined with barbecue or other sauce and inserted between two pieces of bread for a sandwich. But limiting pork shoulder to this fate overlooks one crucial fact -- pork shoulder, slowly roasted in an oven, delivers the true pork flavor missing from conventional pork loin roasts.
Pork Shoulder vs. Boston Butt vs. Picnic Shoulder
The pork shoulder is a large cut (12 or so pounds) that includes the shoulder and top of the front leg. To achieve a family-sized portion, it is often sold in two sections: the upper shoulder portion, called the Boston Butt, and the lower arm portion, called the Picnic Shoulder (although either of these sections can also be sold as "pork shoulder.") Both cuts can be found in 4 - 8 pound roasts.
Neither section is better than the other; choosing between the two is largely a matter of preference. In general, the Boston butt has less bone than a bone-in picnic, although the picnic can be found unboned as well. The picnic also usually comes with a fat and skin layer, which can be left intact while roasting or simply peeled back. To avoid this layer, many prefer to cook the Boston butt.
And for those who are curious about the name, "Boston Butt," here is the National Pork Board's explanation of the nomenclature:
"In pre-revolutionary New England and into the Revolutionary War, some pork cuts (not those highly valued, or "high on the hog," like loin and ham) were packed into casks or barrels (also known as "butts") for storage and shipment. The way the hog shoulder was cut in the Boston area became known in other regions as "Boston Butt." This name stuck and today, Boston butt is called that almost everywhere in the US,… except in Boston."
Boston Shoulder Roasts Have Three Significant Advantages Over Pork Loin Roasts
While the difference between a Boston butt and picnic roast is minimal, there is a significant difference between either of these two cuts and pork loin roasts. First is flavor. Unlike loin roasts ("the other white meat"), the shoulder still retains some fat, which adds back the missing pork flavor that loin roasts have lost.
The second significant difference is cooking forgiveness. Since they include an exercised muscle, shoulder roasts need to be cooked slow and long to make them tender; but once put in the oven, they require very little attention. Further, they are very time-forgiving and and can be kept warm for 1-2 hours after reaching their best temperature of anywhere from 180 to 200 degrees. Loin roasts, on the other hand, require careful attention. Roasting a loin roast requires a fine-tuned balancing act as they begin to dry out rapidly once the roast exceeds 140 degrees but, for safety reasons, they should be cooked to over 150 degrees.
The third difference is price. Shoulders are far less expensive than pork, even when considering the presence of a bone. It is unusual to find either shoulder cut for over $2.00/pound.
Different Rubs Allow Cooks to Incorporate Varied Flavors
Cooking a Pork Shoulder is basically very simple. The pork is put into a slow oven (325 degrees or 300 degrees convection) and roasted until very tender and falling off the bone. Usually some water is put in the bottom of the roasting pan to keep drippings or dripped rubs from burning. The roast is turned every hour and the water is checked. Roasts will take anywhere from 3 hours (for small, 4 pound roasts)) to 6 hours and more.
To add interesting flavors, various rubs can be added to the shoulder. The upper fat layer is cut in a cross-hatch pattern and the rub is pressed thoroughly into all the crevices of the pork. Probably the simplest rub, and still one of the best, is an even proportion of brown sugar and salt rubbed all over.
Many rubs, however, have Latin American flavors, since roasted pork is a favorite Latin American dish. A common dish served along Costa Rican roadsides is called "pernil." Here the rub is based on a combination of garlic, oregano, and vinegar. But every cook adds their own variation. The version below, which is based on a Mark Bittman recipe, adds plenty of onion and cumin.
This simple preparation utilizes an overnight rub:
Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder in a Dry Brine
Ingredients
- 1 bone-in pork butt, 6 to 8 pounds
- 1/3 cup kosher salt
- 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
- Ground Black Pepper
Directions
- Using a sharp knife, cut slits 1 inch apart in crosshatch pattern in the fat cap of roast, being careful not to cut into meat. Combine salt and brown sugar in medium bowl. Rub salt mixture over entire pork shoulder and into slits. Wrap roast tightly in double layer of plastic wrap, place on rimmed baking sheet (to catch juices), and refrigerate 12 - 24 hours.
- Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Unwrap roast, and brush off any excess salt mixture from surface. Season with pepper. Transfer roast to a roasting rack set in a large roasting pan and add water to the bottom of the roasting pan.
- Cook the roast, turning every hour or so and basting, until the meat is extremely tender and instant-read thermometer registers 190 degrees, 5 - 6 hours. Transfer roast to carving board and let rest, loosely tented with foil, 15 to 20 minutes.
Slow-Roasted Shoulder with a Pernil-Style Rub
A Pernil Variation of the above recipe includes the following marinade; it doesn't use the overnight timing.
Ingredients
- 4 or more cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 large onion, quartered
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano
- 1 tablespoon ground cumin
- 1 tablespoon salt (2 tablespoons kosher salt)
- 2 teaspoons ground black pepperder
- 1/4 cup olive oil, plus more if needed
- 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
Directions
Combine all the ingredients from the garlic to the pepper in a food processor. Add enough olive oil to make a paste, and rub on the shoulder just prior to roasting:
Sources:
Pork National Board, Theotherwhitemeat.com
Meat Cuts, USDA, Home and Garden Bulletin, No. 265
Mark Bittman, The Minimalist Chooses 25 of His Favorites, New York Times, (Jan. 25, 2011)
Lindsay McSweeney - I am a 50 plus professional editor, wife, and mother. I've written and edited food articles professionally, and am currently managing a ...
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